Road Scholar - The Best of the Canadian Maritimes

September 13 - Introduction to Nova Scotia

On a trip, I usually write a daily journal or at least take notes from our day's activities. I did not do that on this trip. Instead, I am trying to recreate all of the things we did from memory. At my age, that is rather difficult. So I am relying on the Road Scholar brochure as well as the photos that I took to write these daily journals. Some of the text comes directly from the brochure but impressions come from me.

After a decent breakfast buffet, we started the morning with a presentation by Dr Jay White, a local historian, who introduced us

to the history of Nova Scotia and the city of Halifax. Then we traveled to Peggy's Cove, one of the most picturesque and charming fishing villages on the East Coast with its rustic, weathered wharves balanced on huge granite boulders. The town is named after the sole survivor of a schooner shipwrecked on Halibut Rock off Lighthouse Point: Peggy (Margaret) of the Cove. The most well-known lighthouse in Canada, and one of the most photographed lighthouses in the world, was built here in 1914. Positioned on a granite ledge, it served as the local post office until November 2009.

The bus dropped us off at the lighthouse. Ann and I wandered on top of the rocks surrounding the lighthouse under a clear blue sky with pleasant temperatures. We then meandered down and up the only street in the village while taking in the authentic but stereotypical views of its harbor. This was a beautiful fishing harbor that met my expectations of Canadian maritime villages. There were a couple of souvenir shops, of course, and a visitors' center, but that was also expected.

After boarding the bus, we drove on to Lunenburg. We arrived there just in time for lunch. Several of us ate at the Dockside Inn & Restaurant at Anne's recommendation. The haddock fish and chips were very good. The sun was a bit too shiny, but we persevered.


After lunch we explored Lunenburg's narrow streets on foot with a local guide; visited its  historic churches and examined the Victorian architecture of the Old Town in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town's picture-postcard harbor, its colorful waterfront and the homes of flamboyant sea captains reflected its seafaring heritage. Many of these beautifully maintained homes were on the original town plan, established in 1753, the first British colonial settlement in Nova Scotia outside Halifax. Later, a vibrant economy was built on farming, fishing, shipbuilding and trade, particularly with the West Indies. The renowned fishing and racing schooner Bluenose was built here in 1921, as was the replica Bluenose II in 1963.

This walking tour began at the top of the town's highest hill and finished at harbor-side. The local guide was very good.

On the bus again, we drove back to Halifax and the Atlantica Hotel. Dinner was on the waterfront at Salty's Restaurant. We had panko crusted haddock with house-made corn relish.

© 2016 Robert N Lynn

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